What could we eat today? Hypothetically … we could have bacon and eggs for breakfast, soup and a sandwich for lunch, and a steak and baked potato for dinner. For dessert there’s cake and ice cream, and before we go to bed, we could have a soothing glass of warm milk and cookies.

In case you haven’t noticed, the operative word here is “and,” and when we’re considering what to eat, it’s more often the “and item” that gets our attention and sets our taste buds tingling. Which would you rather have, a grilled cheese sandwich or a grilled cheese sandwich and a bowl of steaming tomato soup?

This momentous insight came to me recently as I addressed the topic of New England Cookery in a class on Regional American Cooking at The School of Culinary Arts at Kendall College. This was an important day and a fun day for the students who came to appreciate a somewhat commonplace dish through its traditional, yet unusual, accompaniment. How about a nice plate of Boston Baked Beans and a slice of Boston Brown Bread?

Boston Brown Bread is a dark, sweet, steamed bread made from rye and wheat flour, cornmeal and molasses that dates back to Colonial New England. The use of cornmeal and rye enabled early settlers to stretch their supply of wheat flour, which was in short supply during that period. Most meals were cooked in fireplaces, so the bread was steamed, usually in some sort of cylindrical container. Somewhere along the line it became a tradition to steam the bread in a coffee can, and that’s just how we’re going to do it. You will need two 1-pound coffee cans. Here’s the recipe:

Boston Brown Bread

1 cup whole wheat flour

1 cup rye flour

1 cup yellow cornmeal (finely ground)

1 ½ teaspoons baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup raisins (optional)

2 cups buttermilk

¼ cup molasses

  •  Grease two 1-pound coffee cans and set aside
  •  In a large bowl, combine the whole wheat flour, rye flour, cornmeal, baking soda and salt
  •  Add the raisins (optional), making sure they are well separated and not in clumps
  •  In a small bowl, combine the buttermilk and molasses
  •  Add this to the dry ingredients and gently mix until the ingredients are just moistened. Don't over-mix!
  •  Fill the greased coffee cans no more than 2/3 full
  •  Cover the cans with a double layer of tin foil and fasten with string or a large rubber band
  •  Place the cans on a rack in a large pot and add boiling water to reach halfway up to the top of the cans
  •  Bring the water back to a gentle simmer; cover the pot and steam for 2 1/2 to 3 hours, until an inserted toothpick comes out clean
  •  Remove from the oven and let cool for 10 minutes before putting on a rack. Let the bread cool for 1 hour before turning out of the container
  •  Slice and eat plain or buttered, or toast in a little butter in a frying pan
  •  Serve with baked beans

Traditionally, brown bread is made in an old coffee can, but it can be made in any small loaf pan.

In a pinch, if you don't want to make your beans from scratch, open a couple of cans of baked beans and use the empty cans for the bread.

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Frank Chlumsky, former executive chef of Philander's restaurant in Oak Park, teaches in Chicago at Kendall College's School of Culinary Arts. In his 37-year career, Frank has owned restaurants in Michigan...